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Plume Necklace State XIII
Erte ( Romain De Tirtoff )
184883 Erte ( Romain De Tirtoff ) Plume Necklace State XIII c. 1989 Necklace with gold, diamonds, sapphires, amethysts and sterling silver as indicative of the thirteenth state. Signed in the casting with Erte's authorized signature and the Circle Fine Art seal. From the edition of 18 examples numbered 15/18 (6 artist's proofs also exist). This necklace is accompanied by a rare certificate of authenticity hand-signed in ink by Erte. This state of the necklace from an extremely small edition of only 18 examples and 6 artist's proofs is available exclusively through Park West Gallery, and provides an exceptional collecting opportunity. As a fashion and costume designer, Erte had an innate interest in jewelry; however, he had always felt that most jewelry was "dull, conventional, [and] boring. He envisioned his jewelry as works of art" ("Erte Art to Wear: The Complete Jewelry," p. 9) but he also wanted them to be worn, so instead of using the term "jewelry," he referred to his designs as "art to wear." Erte did not create jewelry earlier in his career because jewelry manufacturers all over the world advised him that it would be impossible to translate his detailed designs into jewelry. The Circle Fine Art Corporation (with whom Erte published his serigraphs) created their own jewelry atelier for the sole purpose of bringing Erte's jewelry designs to realization. Each piece is based on an earlier design by Erte, and because he usually required any original designs to be returned upon completion of a project he had a considerable library of designs ready to be crafted, and by 1979, Erte's art to wear was introduced to enthusiastic collectors the world over. Erte's "Art to Wear" jewelry designs have since become widely sought after as much for their individual beauty as for their rarity, collecting appeal, and historic significance as works of art by one of the 20th Century's most important designers and artists. Erte used the "Plume" design in various forms for decades beginning in the 1920s with a costume design. Erte "frequently wore 'Plume' himself as an ornament on neckties or scarves." (Erte Art to Wear: The Complete Jewelry," p. 132).
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